New Zealand Mudsnails (NZMS)

By taking at least one of the following actions before leaving a site:

* Rinse waders and gear with disinfectant and scrub with stiff brush to remove mud and debris.

* Remove snails from nooks and crannies (e.g. boot laces).

* Use seperate set of gear for infected waters.

* Freeze gear for 6-8 hours.

* Use a hot water bath for at least 5 minutes above 130 degrees F.

* Dry gear for at least several days.

* Clean Boats and trailers after each use.

Havana's Pet Care tips and advice 

1. SHOTS, SHOTS SHOTS.  as much as we canine's hate them we need them,  so don't forget our annual shots.

2. Bathing....   ggrrrrrrrrr  we like bath's, they feel so good and it helps keep our coats healthy and protects against fleas and ticks.

3. trimming the hair around my feet and toes,  helps keep my feet clean and free of debris and stickers and thorns.

4. Help me have healthy teeth and gums by brushing my teeth and giving me dental chew toys.

Havana's favorite pet links   

 www.sitstay.com     http://www.doggieconnection.com    www.felixandfido.com    

 www.utahpets.org/strut.html     www.petsmart.com     www.drgodpet.com

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   Check out Mystery Tramp Records

Travis and Emily have created a GREAT cd called

"The Ocean is a women"  It is for all those wanting

a crusiers life, Beach, Sun, and crystal blue waters.

            PEACE AND SAIL ON...

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 Fly of the Month 

The Cadfly 

by: Jeff "Futzer" Anthony

1)     Tie in the thread to the last 1/3 of the hook and create a small bump  at the very rear of the shank, this is to

         separate the tail into a nice Y when tied in. 3 wraps in the bump. 

2.)     Tie it the tail, the length of the shank of the hook.  It should splay out in a Y shape  and turn slightly upwards

          from the hook shank.

3)    Select the goose biot from near the wing tip end,  where the biots are slightly more slender and nice a long. 

        Tie in the goose biot to be wrapped up for the body, as I move forward to the 2/3 point of the shank I build 

        up a carrot shaped base of thread to wrap the biot over. 

4)     Next I take the zap a gap super glue bottle, and holding upside down squeeze a small drop to the tip, then invert

        the bottle upright   a nd let the drop get sucked back into the bottle.  I now have a very tiny amount of supper 

        glue at the tip of the bottle mouth.   I gently add a little to the carrot shaped body of thread.  Using a small English 

        hackle pliers, I wind up the body slightly over lapping the last wrap and tie off.  Cut any excess off and finish off.  

        See how it tapers quickly to the hook shank..

5)     Tie in the olive grizzly hackle, its barbules should measure 1.5 times the length the hook gap.   Wind the

         thread forward just less than half way to the hood eye.

6)     Tie in the wing of stacked calf elk hair like you would a elk hair caddis wing,  at a 40  degree angle to the hook. 

        Wind the thread forward to the hook eye and tie in the grizzly hackle sized 1.3 times the hook gap,  so it rests

         forward of the hook gap.

 7)     Wind the olive hackle forward 8 turns, 5 behind the wing.  Wrap with a bit of space between wraps to  

         accommodate the natural grizzly hackle.  Tie off the olive hackle, just back of the hook eye. I want the olive hackle

         to be the most rear wrap and the most forward wrap of hackle.

8)     Wrap the natural grizzly hackle back 3 wraps in front of the wing 3 behind and then wrap it forward, 3 behind the

         wing and 2 in front.  Tie off just before the hook eye.  By over lapping the hackle winds it creates a stronger over

         all hackle and will not unravel as easily.

9)     Tie off the head as closely to the hook eye. I want very little visible thread at the eye. Whips finish twice and apply

        a tiny drop of zap a gap.

10)   Clip the bottom of the hackle off as near the hook as possible without cutting the hackle shafts, see photo.

The Cadfly     

By:Jeff "Futzer" Anthony May 2004

The Cadfly is an Attractor pattern that is customizable to closely match any dry fly situation, the Cadfly is a great pattern to start with when multiple bugs are on the water, fish are up, but you just arent sure where to start.  Let me begin with an excerpt from "I caught you looking up" by Futzer.   Have you ever wondered why a trout in a turbulent plunge pool will scream up from the bottom of say four or five feet of water to hammer a dry fly.  It seems to me that there is no way the fish could tell that the wing was slightly dun colored with a deep olive component to it as it torpedoes the offering.   Why does a parachute or hackle-less dun often work better than a standard pattern?  In my opinion it did not become clear to me until I spent the better part of an afternoon submerged in the Green river with my snorkel gear looking up as bugs drifted over me.   For me, it is the distortion that bug makes into surface film of the water that is the attracting element that is a greater piece to the puzzle of a hatch, than even color, or fly silhouette.  Evidence for me is the fact that brightly colored wing posts on parachute patterns dont disrupt a strike.  The Cadfly named to indicate its usefulness at imitating both Mayfly and Caddis species, sits in the surface film nearly flat, dimpling the surface at abdominal, thorax and outer leg points.   It accomplishes this due to clipping a funnel shaped flat spot out of the lower hackle, as you will see from the recipe.

I write this recipe for the average accomplished tier, if you are a beginner.  First take lessons from a real breathing expert, most local fly shops have classes or other means for you to spend time with a real tier.  I also recommend a book by A.K. Best,  "production fly tying", it is the best how to tying book ever written. 

The Cadfly:

This is the general attractor pattern I use, the colors are selected to imitate a wide variety of Western bugs,  I recommend adapting the colors and size to your particular fishing situation.   Since I clip the hackle I recommend a good floatant, be applied, just be aware it will darken the color of the materials, so tie the fly lighter in color than the bugs you are imitating. Materials:   Barbetts tail fibers, light gray, goose biots grayish green, light gray/tan calf elk hair stacked, light olive dyed grizzly hackle, standard grizzly hackle, contrasting color 8/0 Uni thread burnt orange, Tiemco 102Y size 17, I also tie these in 19s, and up to as big as 12s.  Zap a gap super glue.

Now go fish!  Good luck,

Futzer